Fashion Law Conference: Mansfield College, Oxford, United Kingdom


6th Global Conference
Monday 15th September – Thursday 18th September 2014
Mansfield College, Oxford, United Kingdom

The programme for the conference is available below. Delegates are listed according to the session in which they appear. Clicking on the Session Title will take you to the abstracts (where available) for that session. Each delegate is listed according to their affiliation.
Final Conference Programme

Monday 15th September 2014
From 12.30
Conference Registration
Welcome and Opening Remarks
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Session 1: Extended Meanings: The Rise of the Shoe and the Demise of the Corset
Chair: Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Academic Research on Footwear
Yuniya Kawamura
Footwear Design: “Made in Czechoslovakia”
Juraj Suska
Damsels in this Dress: Female Agency and the Demise of the Corset
Alanna McKnight
Session 2: The History of Fashion
Chair: Laura Petican
Discounting Dreams: Fashion and the Rise of the Department Store in Nineteenth-Century France
Leonard R. Koos
Exotic Fauna: Extreme Fashion Trends in the Nineteenth Century
Damayanthie Eluwawalage
Fistan or Mantua: European Female Dress in the Ottoman Empire: The Case of Larnaca
Iosif Hadjikyriakos

Notices and Announcements
Wine Reception
Conference Dinner

Tuesday 16th September 2014
Session 3: Exploring Fashion through Literature
Chair: Jess Berry
Allegorical Fashion in Dickens’ Bleak House and Dostoevsky’s Humiliated and Insulted
Isabelle Dann
Dress and Diremption: Fashioning the Boundaries of Taste in the Historical Novel, 1918–1945
Sallie McNamara
Literary Fashion Icons: Wearing Holly Golightly and Daisy Buchanan
Sarah Heaton
Session 4: Luxury Brands
Chair: Cecilia Winterhalter
Kate Spade and Tory Burch: A Profile of Two Home-Grown Iconic American Luxury Brands
Deidra Arrington
Luxury and Fashion Market in the United Arab Emirates: Success and Limits of an Economic Diversification Strategy
Valentina Pelosi
What the Future Reserves for Jean Paul Gaultier in the UK? A Brand Audit of the French Maison among the Millennial Generation
Luca Lo Sicco
Session 5a: Fashioning Photography, Film, and the Catwalk
Chair: Ariele Elia
Gluttony and the Gamine: Seduction and Revulsion through Consumption in Fashion Photography
Jess Berry
Costuming Gender: Gendered Identity Constructed and Perceived through Drag Costume in Mainstream Film
Shari Tamar Akal
The Cathedral, the Catwalk, and Katy Perry: Religion and Dolce & Gabbana’s ‘Tailored Mosaic’
Lynn Neal
“Things to be Seen”: The Spectacle of Contemporary Fashion Shows
Rosie Findlay
Session 5b: Fashioning Performances
Chair: Luca LoSicco
Fashion Affect: The Closeted Emotions of Different Bodies
Emma Thompson
Dressed in Flags: “National” Colours as Visual Narrators in Costume for Performance
Sofia Pantouvaki
The Hybrid Muse: “2Fik or Not 2Fik”
Laura Petican
Session 6: Style Makers
Chair: Michael A. Langkjær
Salon and the City: Engendering Performance − Marchesa Casati
Aprameya Manthena
Exploring the Value of Fashion Tastemakers to the Fashion System
Rachel Matthews
“The Dream of Tomorrow’s Entertainer”: How Sam Cooke Used Fashion to Sell Soul
Elizabeth Way

Wednesday 17th September 2014
Session 7: 
Economies of Fashion
Chair: Alanna McKnight
Globalisation and Cultural Disparities: A Perspective in CSR Practices in the Apparel Industry
Gayathri Banavara
Fast Forward? The Role of the Fashion Week in Defining a Middle-Eastern Fashion Identity
Lezley George
Session 8: Innovations in Fashion Materials, Design, and Education
Chair: Sofia Pantouvaki
Fragments, Cloth and Memory: Material Culture Research Methodologies for Fashion Narratives
Melissa Laird
Take Advantage of Collage Art for Designing Contemporary Women’s Garments
Shimaa Mohamed Atiha
Sculptural Thinking in Fashion
Stephen Swindells
Formalising the Understanding of In-Set Sleeves/Fullness Potentials for a Learning Environment in Fashion Design Education
Lilian Mutsaers
Session 9: Ethical Fashion
Chair: Leonard R. Koos
Knocked-Off: The Law of Protecting Fashion Design
Ariele Elia
Fashion and the Law: From the Perspective of Intellectual Property
Ryu Kojima
The Role of Fundamental Rights in Fashion
Lígia Carvalho Abreu
Session 10: Fashion and Art
Chair: Rosie Findlay
Fashion in Illustration, not as Illustration
Melanie Reim
Fashion as Art or Art as Fashion?
Llewellyn Negrin
“An Eloquent Barker”: New Audiences, New Art
Rachael Barron-Duncan
Karl Lagerfeld’s La Table Ronde: Reflections on the Influence of a Painting by Adolph Menzel on the Designer’s Lifestyle and Aesthetics
Michael A. Langkjær

Thursday 18th September 2014
Session 11: The Female Body: Fashion, Femininity, and Feminism
Chair: Rachel Matthews
The Woman Is Present: Fashion, Feminism, and Nudity
Lea Vene
Analysis of Feminist Appearance
Joyce Heckman
Session 12a: Brandscaping and Packaging
Chair: Deidra Arrington
Branding the Fashion Icon: Politics, Capital, and Agency in the Fashion Industry
Aidan Moir
X Marks the Spot
Demetra Kolakis
Fashionable though Packaging, Food Design, or Scent Project
Cecilia Winterhalter

Session 12b: Forging National Fashion Identities

Chair: Gayathri Banawara
Wearing Your Map on Your Sleeve: Practices of Identification in the Creation and Consumption of Philippine Map T-shirts
Pamela Gloria Cajilig
White and Glamorous: Changes in Twentieth Century Wedding Dresses in Turkey
Elvan Ozkavruk Adanir and Seda Kuleli
The Contribution of the Designer Yiannis Tseklenis to the World of Fashion
Noly Moyssi
Session 13a: Fashioning the Mother-Daughter Relationship, Maternity, and Powerful Women
Chair: Shari Tamar Akal
Lessons that Last a Lifetime? Mother-Daughter Fashion Practices and the Durability of Habitus
Katherine Appleford
Maternity Chic: Fashioning Celebrity Baby Bumps
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Fashioning Powerful Women: The Queen and the Commoner of Indian Politics
Suchismita Chattopadhyay

Session 13b: Sustainability: Fighting Waste with Fashion

Chair:Emma Thompson
Folds of Sustainability: Clothing and Subjectivity in Grey Gardens
Katve-Kaisa Kontturi
Sustainable Bridal and Beyond: Using Design to Extend Garment Life and Eliminate Waste
Kirsten Schaefer
Post-Purchase Consumer Behaviour, Sustainability and its Influence on Fashion Identity
Marwa Gad Mohsen and Ruth Marciniak
Session 14: Fashioning Youth Subcultures in the UK, USA, South Africa, and Japan
Chair: Sallie McNamara
Fountain of Youth: British Fashions in 1960s USA: A Case Study
Patricia Hunt-Hurst
Dress Style Identities of Post-Apartheid Afrikaner Subcultures
Jacky Lucking
Development Meeting, and Closing Remarks
Conference Ends